a woman is alone on a large wheeled platform being towed up a beach by a tractor. the tractor skirts the edges of mangroves and leaves broad tracks in the brown sand. the platform is arranged so she can step onto concrete stairs, and a man comes to carry her small silver case ahead of her. They walk up through the bush to a sheltered reception area, where she signs papers and drinks a glass of tea. behind her a series of motorised canoes with curved prows continues to ferry passengers and supplies across the bay, their sound echoing against the cliff walls. "it sounds like an air field in here," she says, and the receptionist agrees.